Barri Gotic has bars and cafés on virtually every street corner and in every winding alley – although the ones that are only open late are completely shuttered over and not even recognisable as bars until they open up.

For the main set of bars and cafés, trace a path from Plaza Sant Jaume, along Carrer de Ferran, Carrer d’Avigno and Carrer d’En Gignàs.   The streets here are teaming with little places and if you venture into the area made up by the square that they trace you will find even more, often less touristy, cheaper and with more atmosphere. Go on - have a wander - you're bound to stumble across a gem or two.

Ginger
Lledo, 2, Palma de Sant Just
Open: Tues - Sat 7pm - late; closed Sun and Mon
Tel: 93-310 53 09

Ginger has been in all of the tourist guides for years and it shows - there are more foreigners than locals in these days and the prices are a little above most of the less well known places.

If you can get over this, though, it does manage to retain its slightly underground and backstreet feel and the large, comfortable seats are somewhat of a rarity in the area. There is also a very limited amount of tapas available when most have stopped serving, although our advice would be to stick to the drinks unless you are desperate.

Good for a late night stop off, for some relaxed drinks after eating.

Karma
Placa Reial, 10
Open: Tues - Sun 12pm - 5.30am; closed Mon
Tel: 93-302 56 80
www.karmadisco.com

A small, friendly bar in the daytime, Karma has the standout benefit of being the only bar on the sunny side of Plaza Reial. In other ways it is no different from the dozen or so bars around the Plaza, but this location alone makes it worth a visit for the sun worshippers among you for a pre (or post) lunch drink.

At night it transforms into a late and lively club.

La Clandestina
Baixada de Viladecols, 2
Tel: 93-319 05 03

FREE WIFI

Describing itself as a "Teteria" (Tea bar), La Clandestina is a gem in the heart of the old town.

The decor inside is a middle eastern / north african mix, with hanging carpets and all sorts of wall-hung paraphanelia adding to the charm. Over 20 types of tea are served, along with the usual coffee, stronger drinks and, for those with a more adventurous streak, Hookah (hubbly-bubbly) pipes. The crowd is young and trendy - earlier in the day you'll find a set crowded over their laptops, taking advantage the free (and fast) WIFI. Later it gets more crowded and upbeat.

A gem.

Milk
Carrer d'En Gignas, 21
Open: Mon - Thurs 6pm - 2.30am; Sat, Sun 11am - 3am
Tel: 93-268 09 22
www.milkbarcelona.com

Milk is all you would expect from a decent tourist oriented cocktail bar, but for some reason it just doesn't hit the right note. The cocktails are reasonable, as is the food, and the largely Irish staff are friendly enough but it just all feels a bit manufactured and plasticy.

Taking up a corner in the increasingly trendy area around Carrer d'En Gignas, Milk Bar takes up no more space than the average living room, so finding somewhere to plonk yourself in busy times can be a challenge.

That all said, you can't beat the happy hour - 7-9pm - for a bit of pre-dinner or even pre-clubbing drinking.

My Bar
Ferran, 8
Open: Sun - Thurs: 12pm - 2am; Fri - Sat: 12pm - 3am
Tel: 93-317 94 32

Along with Temple Bar and Molly Malones, My Bar makes up a set of largely identical Irish pubs just next to Plaza Reial.

Everything you expect is here - friendly, English speaking staff, British beers and foods and sports on big screens. If you like it Irish head here - if you are looking for somewhere to mix with the locals, steer clear.

P Flaherty's
Placa de Joaquim Xirau
Open: Daily: 9am - 3am
Tel: 93-412 62 63
www.pflaherty.com

One of the best known Irish bars in the city, this one has 3 TV screens (4 if you count the outside one that's sometimes on) showing all of the sporting events you are ever going to want.

Add in the tables in the square out front that catch the sun most of the day and you can see why this is where many English and Irish groups head for a bit of home. Spanish its not - most of the bar staff don't even speak it - but if you are looking for loud and rowdy, this is the place for you.

As with most Irish bars in the city its not cheap - a bottle of Bud will set you back €3.50 and a pint bottle of cider €5.50. Menu is better value if you are looking for a hearty burger or similar.

Schilling
Ferran, 23
Open: Mon - Sat: 10am - 3am; Sun: Midday - 3am
Tel: 93-317 67 87
www.cafeschilling.com

Schilling is a bit of a bar / café landmark in Barcelona. The bottle lined walls and dim, moody lighting give it a real sleazy sort of feel (in a good way) but the location in the heart of Barri Gotic and the more than reasonable prices make it a real favourite.

The food which is served at lunchtimes is limited to sandwiches, salads and snacks like nachos and, while not bad value, is nothing to write home about in terms of quality. And the service of the young waiting staff is slow to the point of ignoring you at times.

Nevertheless, this remains a great place to while away an hour or two over coffee or a beer people watching the tourist crowd through the windows on Carrer Ferran or soaking up the atmosphere of the dark black surroundings.